I just moved into my 5th apartment in Buenos Aires... the first a year ago when I was first here, and the last 4 in the last 7 months. Wow. Writing that makes me feel like some quaint old-fashioned hobo or tramp who wandered around during the Great Depression with a bundle of things tied up in a checkered blanket and attached to a stick slung over my shoulder. But anyway, I am not normally this transient, and in fact as I discovered while packing up all my things, I am in fact a huge packrat. ('Do I need this skirt I bought 4 months ago and still haven't worn once? Um... YES, obviously.') We packrats don't deal too well with a nomadic lifestyle.
Anyway, what's exciting about this new place is that for the first time I am living a) not in Palermo and b) not with other Yanquis. For anyone who doesn't know, Palermo is like the Beverly Hills of Buenos Aires. Well, much more urban. But basically, it's known for tree-lined streets, great bars and restaurants, pretty parks, and being home to the BA upwardly mobile.
*Sidenote/little history lesson: I recently learned that, actually, San Telmo & the South of the city used to be the rich part. But then, when the Yellow Fever epidemic of 1871 came, the rich fled to the North, to what is now Barrio Norte, Recoleta, etc. Huge elaborate mansions in San Telmo were turned into multiple family homes (conventillos), now mostly used as art galleries. And the North became what it is today, home to the mildly/extravagantly wealthy (see the Alvear Hotel or any house in San Isidro.)
Anyway, with the exception of 6 weeks spent living in Almagro in 2007, I've only lived in Palermo. My new apartment is in Tribunales/Congreso/Once, depending who you ask, and if I'm among chetos I can lie and say it's in Barrio Norte. I'm living with an Argentine family, who has a daughter just a little older than me who is studying philosophy at la UBA, and a British guy. Here's something interesting for anyone reading this from the USA - you know how at home, being a university professor is a pretty cushy job? Tenure, big salary, easy work hours, reserved parking space? Well, not here. Professors here basically work for the love of their subject and often have to hold down two jobs so they can support themselves. I thought our education system was a mess, but Argentina could definitely give us a run for our money in that department.
Anyway, I have high hopes for this new apartment, that my Spanish will improve a bit, my commute to work will be much shorter, and hopefully I won't need to move again, at least for a few months.
I'm also now on Subte Linea B (Subway Line B) instead of D. This may not sound significant, but I have a theory about Buenos Aires, classism, and the Subte. Linea D is hands down the nicest line, the chic one, which carries Palermo & Belgrano residents to office jobs in Microcentro, or to shopping on Santa Fe. Linea C, on the other hand, is like a one-way train to Ghettotown. Literally, if you're going to the end of the line in Constitucion, something I do every Thursday. I swear, someone needs to do a sociological survey about this. You can measure it using the "People with iPods vs. People Missing Teeth" Ratio. The other lines fall somewhere in between. Linea A is adorable and old-fashioned with cute retro subte cars. Linea B, I'm not sure, but at least I don't have to transfer to get to work anymore.
Okay, enough rambling! besos to all.
domingo, 4 de mayo de 2008
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4 comentarios:
Jajajajajajajajajajajaja...
I really enjoy this blog Sarah. Well, your theory about the tube lines is true as the blue sky. D is faraway the most fashion line. The same (even if you still didn´t notice) happens with the train... Retiro is the best one (passing by Belgrano, Nuñez, Vicente Lopez, Martinez, olivos, San Isidro) while the West one (Once, Caballito, Flores, Floresta, Villa Luro, Liniers, Ramos Mejía, Merlo, Ituzaingo, Moreno) is like getting into the far west.
Pero tenés razón... la mejor es la del subte A. Lejos!
mil gracias!
debe ser un libro entero sobre el transporte publico de buenos aires! o quiza se puede añadir unas notitas antropologicas a la Guia T... que te parece? :)
quisiera hacer tambien un post sobre los barrios de buenos aires... son tan complicados, distintos, y atados a las identidades porteñas...
y bueno, me encanta la linea A, con los luces flickering on and off, very quaint. no se como traducir quaint en castellano..
Lo de los barrios es un quilombo, principalmente porque lo que la gente llama barrio en general no tiene nada que ver con la división oficial de la ciudad. Por ejemplo, Once no existe. Congreso tampoco existe. Barrio Norte no existe. Son en el registro oficial: Balvanera, San Cristobal, Recoleta, Socorro.
Tampoco existe Caballito por ejemplo, que es San Carlos Sud.
Todos los barrios (oficialmente) tienen el nombre de la iglesia cabecera de la zona, porque originalmente los registros civiles (donde anotaban a la gente cuando nacía) eran los mismos que los eclesiásticos (los de bautismo).
Bueno, como ves hay mucho de que hablar.
En pescadores anónimos hay un especialista en barrios: Sancho.
Al mismo tiempo los sábados por la tarde (de 12 a 4 más o menos) se reunen en un café de la calle Boedo llamado Margot (Boedo y Pasaje San Ignacio) un conjunto de gente que se especializa en historias de buenos aires (historia de los barrios, poesías, cuentos, etc.).
gracias por tu respuesta, reinteresante como siempre, y si, el asunto de los barrios es un lio, pero divertido jugar con las nombres.. y tambien yo creo que pronto todas las partes de la ciudad van a llamarse 'Palermo algo' como microcentro puede ser Palermo Midtown y La Boca puede ser Palermo Harlem... San Isidro, Palermo Westchester...
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